Automatic sewing units



o. B. REID I-:TAL

AUTOMATIC SEWING UNITS July 16, 1963 12 Sheets-Sheet 1 Filed May 26,1958 3 E mw n@ 8 n o@ IIL.

July 16, 1963 o. B. REID ETAL AUTOMATIC SEWING UNITS 12 Sheets-Sheet 2Filed May 26, 1958 LILLLU:

July 16, 1963 o. B. REID ETAL AUTOMATIC SEWING UNITS 12 Sheets-Sheet 5Filed May 26, 1958 July 16, 1963 o. B. REID ETAL AUTOMATIC SEWING UNITSI2 sheets-sheet '4 Filed May 26, 1958 O. B. REID ETAL AUTOMATIC SEWINGUNITS July 16, 1963 Filed May 26, 1958 July 16, 1963 o. B. REID ETALAUTOMATIC SEWING UNITS 12 Sheets-Sheet 6 Filed May 26, 1958 July 16,1963 o. B. RElD ETAL AUTOMATIC SEWING UNITS 12 Sheets-Sheet '7 Filed May26, 1958 July 16, 1963 Filed May 26, 1958 O. B. REID ETAL AUTOMATICSEWING UNITS 12 Sheets--Shee'cI 8 O. B. REID ETAL AUTOMATIC SEWING UNITSJuly 16,1963" Filed' May 26, 1958 12 Sheets-Sheet 9 July 16, 1963 o. B.REID ETAL AUTOMATIC SEWING UNITS 12 Sheets-Sheet 10 Filed May 26, 1958Laos` Figz/L m ....lu. F

July 16, 1963 o. B. REID ETAL AUTOMATIC SEWING UNITS 12 Sheets-Sheet 11Filed May 26, 1958 July 16, 1963 o. B. REID ETAL y 3,097,617

AUTOMATIC SEWING UNITS Filed May 26, 1958 12 Sheets-Sheet 12 UnitedStates Patent O 3,097,617 AUTOMATIC SEWING UNITS Orland B. Reid,Kenilworth, John A. Herr, G'arwood, and

Edgar P. Turner and George J. Abel, Watchung, NJ.,

assignors to The Singer Manufacturing Company, Elizabeth, NJ., acorporation of New Jersey Filed May 26, 1958, Ser. No. 737,775 18Claims. (Cl. 112 2) The present invention relates to sewing machines andparticularly to an automat-ic sewing unit.

The quantity and the quality of the output that can be obtained withpresent-day sewing machines is heavily dependent upon the skill of theoperator. For work having long straight runs, high quality work can beproduced by a skilled operator running the machine at maximum speed.However, for work requiring a great deal of manipulation -by .theoperator, for example, a shirt cuff which has short straight runs Iandrequires turning the work between these runs, even a highly skilledoperator cannot operate the machines at maximum speed and even then, hassome difficulty producing uniformly hi-gh quality work. The primaryobject of this invention is to provide Ia machine which will decreasethe manufacturing cost of a garment. To accomplish this end, there isprovided in accordance with the present invention an automaticallyoperating machine in which the sewing operation can be performed athigher sewing speeds, thus increasing the output of the operator withoutsacricing quality. The machine in accordance with this invention is alsodesigned to perform -a succession of sewing operations, thus reducingthe number of operators required. At the same time, since skilledoperators are relatively highly paid, reducing the skill required of theoperator will effect a further savings in the cost of the labor -in themanufacture of the garment.

Generally, it i-s an object of this invention to provide a machinewhich, when loaded, will automatically perform a sewing operation on awork piece and also to provide such a machine which can be readilyloaded by an inexperienced operator.

It is a further object of this invention to provide a machine adapted toaccommodate a relatively large work piece such as a shirt cuff, which,when loaded and the operation thereof initiated, will automaticallyperform la sewing operation on the work piece to produce a seam of apredetermined configuration, and more particularly, to provide atraversing mechanism `for feeding work relatively to the stitchingmechanism of a sewing machine to produce a seam pattern and, further,which controlwise is interconnected with the sewing machine to providean automatically operated unit.

It `is a further object of this invention to provide an improved machinethat will automatically perform a succession of sewing operations on .awork piece.

Another object of this invention is to provide an im'- prpxeil workholding means for controlling a work piece as it yis operated upon by asewing machine.

Numerous alterations of the structure herein disclosed will suggestthe-mselves to those skilled in the art. ljlow ever, it is to beunderstood that the present disclosure relates to a preferred embodimentof my invention which is for purposes of illustration only land not tobe construed as a limitation f the invention. All such modications whichdo not depart from the spirit of the invention are intended to beincluded within the scope of the appended claims.

In the drawings:

FIG. 1 is a top plan view of a machine embodying the present invention.

FIG. 2 is a fragmentary plan view, on an enlarged scale,

of that portion of the machine of FIG. 1 on which the work is loaded.

FIG. 3 is a fragmentary transverse vertical sectional View takensubstantially on the line 3 3 of FIG. 2.

FIG. 4 is a fragmentary transverse vertical sectional View takensubstantially on the line 4 4 of FIG. 2.

FIG. 5 is a fragmentary longitudinal vertical sectional view takensubustantially on the line 5 5 of FIG. 2.

FIG. 6 is a transverse vertical sectional view taken substantially onthe line 6 6 of FIG. 2.

FIG. 7 is a fragmentary longitudinal vertical sectional View takensubstantially on the line 7 7 of FIG. 1.

FIG. 8 is a fragmentary transverse vertical sectional view takensubstantially on the line 8 8 of FIG. 1.

FIG. 9 is a transverse vertical sectional view taken substantially onthe line 9 9 of FIG. 1.

FIG. l0 is a fragmentary longitudinal vertical sectional view takensubstantially on the line 1.0 10 of FIG. 1.

FIG. 11 is a fragmentary plan view, on an enlarged scale, of thatportion of the machine of FIG. 1 for performing the final sewingoperation.

FIG. l2 is a front elevational view, on an enlarged scale, of thatportion of the machine as illustrated in FIG. 1l.

FIG. 13 is Ia fragmentary transverse vertical sectional view, on -anenlarged scale, taken substantially on the line 13 13 of FIG. 1l.

FIG. 14 is a transverse vertical sectional View taken substantially onthe line 14 14 of FIG. 1l.

FIG. 15 is a fragmentary detail sectional view illustrating the workholding means of the mechanism of the machine of FIG. 1 for performingthe final sewing operation.

FIG. 16 is a fragmentary detail sectional view taken substantially onthe l-ine 16 16 of FIG. 13.

FIG. 17 is a `fragmentary perspective View of the work holding meansillustrated in FIG. 15.

FIG. 18 is a fragmentary transverse vertical sectional view takensubstantially on the line 18-18 of FIG. 11.

FIG. 19 is a detail sectional view showing the head of the sewingmachine las illustrated in FIG. 18.

FIG. 20 is a Vertical detail sectional View at the point of stitchformation of the sewing machine illustrated in FIG. 18.

FIG. 21 is a horizontal detail section view at the point of stitchformation of the sewing machine illustrated in FIG. 18.

FIG. 22 is a circuit diagram of the machine illustrated in FIG. 1 withvarious mechanical components of the machine illustrated schematically.

FIG. 23 is an exploded perspective view of a work assembly as it ispassed through the machine of FIG. 1.

FIG. 24 is a top plan view of the work assembly of FIG. 23.

FIG. 25 is a plan view illustrating the completed work piece sewed onthe machine illustrated in FIG. l.

The present invention is herein illustrated as embodied in a machinethat is designed to perform two successive sewing operations on a threeply cuff for mens shirts. With reference to FIGS. 23, 24 and 25, thecuif comprises a facing 1, an interliner 2, and a backing 3. The'precutpieces 1, 2 and 3 are delivered to the operator who assembles them andpresents them to the machine for sewing. The pieces .1, 2. and 3V havesubstantially the same contour except that they are of different widths,the interliner 2 being the narrowest, the backing 3 being somewhatwider, and the facing 1 being the Widest.

In assembling the culf pieces 1, 2. and 3 for sewing, the backing 3- i-splaced on the bottom, the facing 1 is laid on topl fof it, and theinterliner 2 is laid on top of Ithe facing. In the initial sewingoperation, the edge of thefacing 1 is folded over the edge of theinterliner 2 and stitched to it by a line of stitches S1, FIG. 25. Inthe second sewing operation the pieces 1, 2 and 3 are stitched togetheralong lthree sides by a line of stitches S2 which follows the contour ofthe edges of the pieces and is spaced inwardly thereof a short distance.At the completion of the operation of the illustrated embodiment of themachine, the cuff, designated C, appears as illustrated in FIG. 25. Insubsequent operations, the cuff is inverted to place the interliner 2between the facing and backing I3, a finishcontour stitching similar tothe line ofV stitches S2 is placed about three edges of the cuff, andthe cuff is nally attached to the shirt. Since the cuff is subsequentlyinverted, when the pieces of the cuff are assembled, the finished facesof the facing 1 and backing 3 are juxtaposed so that upon beinginverted, these faces will be on the outside.

During the sewing operation, the three pieces of the cuff are sandwichedbetween a bot-tom plate 4 and a top plate 5. The bottom plate 4 is ofsteel and the top` plate 5 is of a compositionmaterial and has twopermanent magnets -6 embedded in the ends thereof. To reduce thepossibility of any relative motion between the plates and the cuffpiece, the cloth engaging faces of the plates 4 and 5 lare provided witha frictioning material 7 and S such as emery cloth and 'there are alsoprovided pins 8a on the top plate 5 and apertures 7a in the plate 4 forreceiving the pins l8a. The plates 4 and 5, which are substantiallyidentical in outline, conform substantially to the outline of the cuffpieces but are somewhat smaller so that the edges thereof correspondingto the three edges of the cuff pieces sewed with the stitching S2 willlie inside of the edges of the cuff pieces to provide clearance for thestitching mechanism, and are considerably narrower than the cuff piecesto provide for manipulation of the edges of the cuff pieces in sewingthe seam S1.

The cuff assembly, which is illustrated in FIG. 24 and is designated A,comprises the bottom plate 4, the backing 3 laidon the bottom plate 4with the finished face up, the facing 1 which is laid on the backing 3`wi-th the finished face down, the interliner 2, and the top plate 5. Thecuff assembly A is firmly held together magnetically by the actionbetween the magnets :and plate 4 and is held against slipping by thefrictioning material 7 and 8 and pins 8a.

With reference toFIG. 1, the disclosed embodiment of the inventioncomprises an L-shaped table 9 upon which is mounted a first sewingmachine 10, a table 11 upon which isy mounted a second sewing machine12, a bridge piece 13 between the tables 9 and 11, and a table 14 forsupporting a traverse mechanism for the sewing machine 12. The tables 9,11 and 14 are mounted upon legs extending upwardly from ia common base,all of which is only incidentally disclosed in the drawings since thedetails of the supporting structure form no part of the presentinvention. It is ysufficient to note that the tables 9 and 11 are of thesame height to define a continuous horizontal and planar work surfaceand that all of the tables are rigidly connected together by thesupporting structure.

To describe the overall machine brieiiy, the L-shaped table 9 includes afirst leg 16 upon which the sewing machine is mounted and a second leg1'7 upon which is mounted a first traversing mechanism T1. The operatoris stationed facing the leg `17 of the table 9 with the sewing machine10y at her right. The operator assembles the cuff on the traversemechanism T1 at a loading position P and then initiates operation of themachine. While the machine is operating through its cycle, the operatorassembles another cuff at the loading position P, and upon completion ofthe one cycle, initiates the next cycle. The traversing mechanism T1 isdesigned to move the cuff assembly from the loading position P to thesewing machine 16', and includes guides for folding under the edge ofthe backing 3 to position it out of the way for sewing the seam S1 andguides for folding the edge of the facing 1 over the edge of theinterliner 2. Upon presentation of the cuff assembly A to the sewingmachine 10, that machine is automatically started and runs through itssewing cycle, upon the termination of which it stops and actuates acutter to sever the thread chain, to a previously sewed cuff assembly.There is a second traverse mechanism T2 extending from 4the dischargeside of the sewing machine 10', across the bridge piece 13, and lacrossthe table 11. The traverse mechanism T2, when actuated, moves apreviously sewed and severed cuff assembly from the sewing machine 16 tothe sewing machine 12 and in so doing, passes it over a guide on thebridge piece 13 to straighten the under folded edge of the backing 3. Atthe same time, the traverse mechanism T2 removes a finally completedcuff from the sewing machine 12 and drops it onto a belt mechanism B forreturning it to the operator. Associated with the sewing machine 12 is athird traversing mechanism T3 mounted on the table 14 which moves thework relative to the sewing machine 12 for sewing the seam S2 and whichcontrols the operation of the machine 12, the presser lifter mechanism,and the thread chain cutter.

F rst Traverse M ec/mnsm With reference to FiGS. L6, in the top of theleg 17 ofthe table 9 there is provided yan elongated slot `18. As bestseen in FIGS. 3, 4 and 6, ia composite iirst plate 19, which consists ofa support plate 20 having a coincident steel wear plate 21 fastened tothe upper surface thereof, is set into the top of the table 9 along therear edge of the slot 1-8 and overhangs the slot 1S with the front edgeof the plate 19 being spaced from the front edge of the slot 18. As seenin FIG. 2, a second plate 22 is secured `on top of the plate 19. Theplate 22 is L-shaped, having an elongated leg 23 that is narrower thanthe plate 19 and arranged along the rear edge thereof and la short leg24 at the left end that is substantially equal to the width'of the plate2). The plate 22 has an appreciable thickness so that it will extendabove the top surface of the plate 19 `and the inside edge 25 of the leg23 and inside edge 26 of the leg 24 will define guide edges. A thirdplate 27 is secured to the top of the plate 19. The plate 27 is alsoL-shaped, having an elongated leg 28 that is narrower than the leg 23 ofthe plate 22 and arranged along the rear edge thereof and a short leg 29at the left end. The plate 27 also has appreciable thickness so that theinside edge 301 of the leg 28 and the inside edge 31 of the leg 29define guide edges. There is provided a narrow elongated slot 32 runninglongitudinally of the first plate 19 and arranged longitudinally of theslot 1S in the table 9. The slot 32 runs for almost the entire length ofthe plate 19 and into the leg 24 of the plate 22. The short leg 29 ofthe plate 27 terminates at the slot 32 and there is provided a piece 33on the opposite side of the slot 32 which forms a continuation of theleg 29 to extend it and the guide edge 31 to substantially the width ofthe plate 19 and the leg 24 of the plate 22.

When the cuff assembly A is loaded, the bottom plate 4 is laid on theplate 19 against the guide edges 25 and 26 of the plate 22 and is heldin position by a magnet 34 secured to the underside of the plate l19.The difference in the width of the plate 19 and the leg 23 of the plate22 is miade to be substantially equal to the width of the plate 4. Theplate 4 and the plate 22 are `of substantially the same thickness sothat they will define a continuous planar surface. The cuff pieces arethen loaded on top of the plate 4 against the guide edges 3G 'and 31 ofthe plate 27, the backing 3 being loaded first, then the facing 1, andfinally the interliner 2. The top plate 5 of the cuff assembly, theoutline of which substantially coincides with that of the bottom plate.4, is finally loaded in superposed relation to the bottom plate 4, thusmagnetically locking the cuff assembly together. The magnet 34 holds theplate 4.and

thus counteracts the effect of the magnets 6 in the plate 5 tofacilitate loading.

To provide a guide to facilitate locating the top plate 5 fof the culfassembly A in exact alignment with the bottom plate yd, there isprovided a bracket 35 secured to the top of the table 9 by `screws 36.The bracket 35 has a pair of upstanding ears 37 to which is pivotallymounted a yoke or lever 38 having a rearwardly extend-ing farm 39including downturned ears 40 that are secured to the ears 37 by pivotscrews 41. The lever 38 includes a pair of spaced forwardly extendingarms 42 having elongated slots 43 that slidably receive studs 44 in theform of shouldered :screws having heads overlying the arms `42 andthreaded into rearwardly extending lugs 45 on ian L-shaped bar 46. Thebar 46 is biased rearwardly relatively to the lever 38 by wire springs47 secured at one end to the lever 38 and having a free end that engagesagainst a hook shaped end of a sheet metal element 49 cooperating withthe studs 44. The bar 46 has an elongated leg 50 and a short leg 51. Theinside edge 52 of the elongated leg 50 and the inside edge 53 of theshort leg 51 comprise guide edges. The width of the legs 50 and 51 ismade equal to the spacing between the guide edges 25 and 26 lof theplate 22 and the guide edges 30 and 31 of the plate 27 so that when thebar 46 is pulled forwardly relative to the lever 38 and lowered onto theplate 22, the guide edges 52 land 53 will be aligned with the guideedges 25 and 26. The plate 27 is provided with cutouts 54 to accommodatethe lugs 45 of the bar 46 t-o permit yit to be lowered into engagementwith the plate 27 To provide for sliding the bar 46 relative to thelever 38, there is provided a handle 55 secured to the bar 46 by a screw56 'and having an elongated slot 57 that slidably receives a headed stud58 mounted upon the lever 38.

When the bottom plate 4 4of the cuff assembly A and the cuff pieces 1, 2and 3 are laid in position, the bar 46 by means of the handle 55 ismoved forwardly relatively to the liever 38 and lowered by pivoting thelever 38 to sandwich the edges of the cuff pieces between the bar 46 andthe plate 22. When the handle 5S is released, the springs `47 willretract the bar 46 into engagement with the guide edge 30 of the plate28, thus aligning the guide ledge 52 of the bar 46 and the guide edge 25lof the plate 28. The top plate 5 of the cuff assembly A is then loadedIagainst Athe guide edges 52 and 53 of the bar 46.

lOpposite the lever 38, the slot 18 is enlarged laterally, as at 59. Aplate 60 is secured to the top of the table 9 overlying a portion of thes-lot enlargement 59 and having a rear edge 61 that is tapered away fromthe plate 19 to expose the front edge of the plate 19 and to provide anopening l62. At the right end of the plate 60 there is provided aseparator plate 63 having a bracket 64 for securing it to the top of thetable 9. The receiving end 65 of the separator plate 63 overlaps withthe corner of the culf assembly A in the loading position, as indicatedin phantom lines in FIG. 2, and is bent downwardly. When the cuffassembly A is loaded, the corner of the bottom ply, which is the backing3, is pushed down through the opening 62 underneath the end `65 of theplate 63 and the corners of the top two plies, which are the interliner2 and facing 1, are laid on top of the end 65 iof the plate 63. To theright of the plate 63 a folding guide 66 having `brackets 67 and `68 formounting it on the table 9 is disposed in the slot 18 beneath the plate19. A second foldfing guide 69 having a pair of brackets 70 for mountingit on the table 9 is disposed on top of the table in front of the plate19. The bottom folding guide 66 is designed 4to receive the bottom plyof the cuit from the separator plate r63 and t0 fold it downwardly andback sharply about `the edge of the bottom plate 4 of the cuff assemblyand ubeneath the plate l19 as seen in FIGS. 3 and 4. The

1edges of the top ply, which is the interliner 2. The bottom ply isfolded back suiiiciently by the guilde 66 so that the fold edge thereofwill be clear of the folded edge of the facing 1 and the edge of theinterliner 2 in the area of the line of stitches 51, so that in theiirst sewing operation only the top two plies will be sewed.

To move the cuff assembly A from the loading position P to the firstsewing machine, there is a reversible induction type electric motor 71,FIGS. 5 and 6, secured to the underside of the table 9 by a strap 72 andhaving a pulley 73 mounted upon the drive shaft 74 thereof. At the leftend of the slot 18 there is provided a cut out 75 in the underside ofthe table 9 that communicates with `the slot 18. Mounted in the cut out75 is a pulley 76 journaled on a yoke 77 that is connected by a spring78 to a bracket 79 secured ion the underside of the table 9. At theright end =of the slot 18 there is provided a pulley S0, FIGS. 3 and 5,journaled on a shaft 81 which is carried by a bracket 82 secured to theunderside of the table 9 and an arm 83 that is secured to the bracket 82by a screw 84, the arm 83 being held in spaced relation relatively tothe bracket 82 by and at the same time su-pporting one end of a guiderod 85 that is square in cross section, FIG. 6. The guide rod y85 isdisposed parallel to the slot 32 in the plate 19 and at the other end issupported by the plate l19 by means of a bracket 86- secured to theunderside of the plate. Mounted on the rod 85 is a slide 87 having abore corresponding in shape to the cross section of the mod 85 toprevent turning of the slide 87 on the rod 85 while permitting of thesame longitudinally of the rod 85. The slide 87 has a plurality oflateral studs 88 upon a selected 'one of which is pivotally mounted alever 89 having a depending lever arm 90 carrying a weight 91 and anupstanding finger 92 that extends upwardly through the slot 32 in theplate 19. The lever 89 is held on the stud y88 by a snap pin 93 and isfree to pivot clockwise as seen in FIG. 5 but is limited to a stopposition in counterclockwise pivoting by the fact that the lever armengages the adjacent one of the studs 88. The particular stud on whichthe lever 89 is mounted is determined in accordance with the length ofthe cuff being sewed. A string belt 94 is wound around the pulley 73 ofthe motor 71, and is entrained about the pulleys 76 and 80` with theends of the belt being secured to brackets 95 and 96 which `are securedto the slide 8'7.

Depending from the slide 87 is an arm 97 that is adapted to actuate aswitch 98, FIGS. 5 and 6, at the left end of the stroke of the slide 87and a switch 99 at the opposite end of the stroke. A starting switch xlhaving -an lactuating arm 101 is mounted on the table 9 with the arm 101directly beneath the arm 39 of the lever 38.

When the operator has nished loading a cuff, the arm 39 of the lever 38is depressed which raises the bar 46 to permit the springs 47 to retractthe same into a position yon top of the plate 27, thus clearing theloading position for loading the next cu. At the same time, the startingswitch 100 is actuated to start the motor 71 forward which, through thebelt 94, moves the slide 87 to the right in FIG. 5. With the finger 92extending upwardly through the slot 32, it will engage the cuff assemblyA and move it toward the first sewing machine 10. The cuff assembly A iscontrolled by the guide edge 25 of the plate 22 as it is moved along andby a series of guide rollers 102 journaled in bracket 103 mounted uponthe top of the table `9. As is more fully explained with relation to thecircuit diagram, FIG. 22, the arm 97 engages the switch `99 at the endof the stroke which reverses the motor 7-1 to return the slide 87 to theloading position. Upon arriving at the loading position, the arm 97engages the switch 98 to stop the motor 71,.

First Sewing Machine The first sewing machine 10 is mounted in a cut out104 in the table 9, FIG. 7, and includes a bed plate 105.

This machine is a Singer No. 402Wl01, which is a needle feed, highspeed, industrial lock stitch machine similar to the machine disclosedin the United States patent of Parry, No. 2,410,790, but having a singleneedle and a single horizontal axis rotary hook. Since the details ofthe sewing machine 10 form no part of the present invention, it is notherein further described. The sewing machine is driven by a belt 106,FIG. 9, `from a double solenoid controlled electric power transmitter107, such as disclosed in the United States patent application of Turneret al., Serial No. 536,414, tiled September 26, 1955, now Patent No.2,860,748, granted November 18, 1958. The transmitter 107 is mountedupon the supporting structure of the table 9 and includes an electricmotor 108 having a double acting solenoid 109 mounted upon the casingthereof. The solenoid 109 is connected to a lever 1110 that controls theclutch and brake mechanisms of the transmitter 107. With reference to-FIG. 22, the solenoid 109 includes a brake solenoid 1111 and a clutchsolenoid 112. When the clutch solenoid 112 is energized, the lever 110is pivoted to clutch the driving pulley 1,13 on the shaft 114 of thetransmitter 107 to the ily wheel of the transmitter thus driving thesewing machine, and when the brake solenoid 111 is energized, the lever`110 is pivoted to bring the belt pulley against a stationary brakingsurface to bring the machine to a stop.

A feeding belt 115 is arranged to feed the cuff assembly A past andbeyond the sewing machine 10. The belt 115 is arranged about an idlerpulley 116, FIG. 7, atensioning pulley 117 and a drive pulley 118. Theidler pulley `116 is journaled in a cut out in the bed 105 of themachine 10. The tensioning pulley 117 is carried by a pair of spacedbrackets 119 mounted on the underside of the table 9 and biased totension the belt 1.15 by a coil spring 120 secured at one end to thebrackets 11S and at the other end (not shown) to the table 9. The drivepulley 118 is mounted upon a shaft 121, FIGS. 1 and 9, journaled inbearing lugs 122 secured to the edge of the table 9. On the forward endof the shaft 121 there is mounted a pulley 123 about which is entraineda belt 124 that is also entrained about a pulley 125 of a conventionaladjustable speed ratio control mechanism 126 having an adjusting lever`127. The mechanism 126 is driven by a belt 128 entrained about a pulley129 on the drive shaft thereof and about a pulley 130 `on the drivenshaft 1114 of the transmitter 107. The feeding belt 115, being driven bythe same source of power as the sewing machine 10, i.e., the transmitter107, will `operate Only when the sewing machine 10 is operated.

As seen in FIG. 8, the sewing machine 10 includes a presser mechanismincluding a presser foot 131 and an endwise moving needle bar 132carrying a needle i133 that defines a point of stitch formation.

The bed 105 of the machine 10 has a milled groove 134, FIG. 8, foraccommodating the belt 115 with the upper surface of the beltsubstantially in the plane of the upper or `work supporting surface ofthe bed 105. The portion of the belt adjacent to the delivery ends ofthe guides 66 and 69 and in front of the point of stitch formation ofthe sewing machine 10 is rendered inoperative by being covered by aplate 135. A guide bar 136 is mounted on the rear edge of the bed 105 ofthe sewing machine with the forward edge thereof aligned with andcomprising an extension of the guide edge 25 of the plate 22. -AU-shaped guide 137 is secured by a bracket 138 to the bed 105 of themachine 10. The guide 137 is `designed to receive the folded edge of thefacing 1 from the guide 69 and to conduct it to the stitching mechanismof the machine 10. Beyond the point of stitch formation, there isprovided along the front edge of the belt 115 a guide bar 139 secured tothe top of the table 9. Spaced from the end of and in alignment with theguide bar 139 is a further guide bar 140 secured to the top of the table9 and the bridge piece y1?. In the space between the guide bars 139 and140, FIG. l, there is arranged a conventional scissors-type thread-chaincutter 141 mounted upon a plate 142 secured to the top of the table 9.The

cutter 141 includes a movable blade 143, FIG. 9', that is actuated by alever 144. The lever 144 is biased by a spring 145 in the direction toraise the blade 143 and is moved to lower the blade 143, and thus severthe thread chain, by a cord 146 connected at one end to the lever, runover an idler pulley 147 journaled in a bracket 148 mounted on theunderside of the table 9, and connected at its other end to a solenoid149 secured to the underside of the table 9. A counter 150v is arrangedto be actuated by the lever 144 to indicate the number of cuffs passedthrough the machine.

As the cuff assembly A is advanced by the finger 92, it is moved ontothe plate 135 and presented to the stitching and feeding mechanisms ofthe sewing machine 10. In advancing, the cuff assembly passes under andactuates a switch 151 carried by a bracket 152 mounted on the table 9and having an actuating arm carrying a contact roller 153. The switch152, as is more fully explained in relation to the discussion of thecircuit diagram, FIG. 22, initiates actuation of the sewing machine 10.A second switch 154 having an actuating arm carrying a contact roller155 is `carried by a bracket 15'6 mounted on the bed 105 of the machine10 and overhangs the path of travel of the cuff assembly behind thepoint of stitch formation. The switch 154 is adapted to be actuated bypassage of the cuff assembly and is connected in parallel with theswitch 151 to hold the sewing machine 10 in operation. Thus, so long asany part of the cutf assembly is under either of the switches v151 and154 the sewing machine 10 is operative. The switch 154 is locatedimmediately behind the point of stitch formation of the machine 10 sothat the sewing machine will be stopped as soon as the cuff assembly Ahas passed through. The solenoid 149 is connected in the circuit of theswitch 154, as is hereafter more fully explained, to be momentari-lyenergized as soon as the machine 10 stops, thus actuating the threadchain cutter 141. The cutter 141 is spaced from the point of stitchformation a distance such that it is just in front of the leading edgeof the cuff assembly A just sewed to sever the thread chain between thiscuif assembly and the one previously sewed. The justsewed cuff assembly,upon the next actuation of the sewing machine 10, is advanced by thebelt `115 onto the bridge piece 13 and upon termination of that sewingcycle, is severed `from the cuif assembly A that has just been sewed.The belt 115 tends to feed the cuif assembly at a speed faster than thespeed of the sewing machine `10. Since the cuff assembly A is stillconnected by the thread chain, it is held back and therefore slipsrelatively to the belt 115, thus tensioning the thread chain andcontrolling it relative to the chain cutter 141. When the succeedingsewing cycle stops, the belt 115 stops and the severed cuff assembly Acomes to rest.

Seco/1d Traverse Mechanism The bridge piece 13, FIGS. 1 and 1l, is asheet metal element secured at its opposite ends to the top of thetables 9 and 11. At the end adjacent to the table 9, the bridge piece 13is cut away at 157 to provide an edge 158 that is substantially inalignment with the edge of the guide bar 140 and an edge 159 that isinclined from a point adjacent to the rear edge of the belt 115 towardythe edge 158 and leads into a slot 160. As the cuff assembly A passesonto the bridge piece 13, the under folded edge of the bottom ply, whichhas been folded back to avoid the stitching mechanism of the sewingmachine 10 during the rst sewing operation, passes under the edge 159 ofthe bridge piece `13. As the cuff assembly A is moved along on thebridge piece, the edge 159 and the slot 160 act to unfold this underfolded edge so that it will flie fiat.

Between the belt 115 and the portion of the table 9 over which it runs,there is provided a wear plate 161, FIGS. 7 and 9, the rear edge 162 ofwhich is turned up to provide a guide for the belt and the cuff assemblyA.

On the bridge piece I13 Ibeyond the slot 160 there is a guide bar 163,FIGS. 1 and ll. A guide bar 164 in the form of an angle bar, FIGS. 9 and1l, is disposed along the path of travel of the rear edge of the cuffassembly A and extends from the table 9, -across the bridge piece 13,and onto the table 11 and the bed plate 165 of .the sewing machine 12.

The traversing mechanism T2 is actuated upon the next cycle of themachine and acts to yadvance va culf assembly A from its rest positionafter having the threadchain severed by the cutter 141 to the sewingmachine 12 for the second sewing operation. This traversing mech- Ianismcomprises fa .rod 166 mounted `at one end on the top of the table 9 by abracket 167 and at the other end supported by `a bracket 168, FIG. 12,secured to the underside of the table 11. A sleeve y169 is slida-blymounted upon the rod 166. An arm `170', FIGS. l, 7 and 9, iS

`mounted upon the sleeve .169 land carries `a wheel 171 that rides on atrack 172 in the form of -an `angle bar that is secured .to the guidebar 164. A cam 173 is mounted upon the track 172 and cooperates With thewheel 171 to effect turning of the sleeve 169 as the wheel 1-71 ridesoff the cam upon its initial forward motion to lower the arm 170 andrides up on the cam in the final portion of its rearward motion. Thesleeve 169 is moved along the rod 166 by a reversible induction typeelectric motor 174 mounted upon the top of the table 11 and having apulley 175 mounted upon the drive shaft thereof. A string belt 176 isWrapped around the pulley 175 and has its opposite ends connected to thearm .170, the belt 176 -being entrained about an idler pulley 177mounted upon the table 11 and `a tensioning pulley -178 mounted on `aspring biased slide 179 mounted on the table 9.

Upon the end of the arm 170 there is provided a lever 180, FIG. 7,pivotally mounted intermediate its ends on the arm 170 and having adepending finger 181 adapted to engage against the rear edge of the cuiassembly A and thereby push the cuff assembly along as the arm 170 ismoved. The lever 180* is pivotally mounted on the arm 170 to permit itto deflect as a subsequent cuff assembly A is moved past the linger 181,the lever being biased by a spring 182 into a stop position determinedby a stop shoulder 183.

As is more fully described hereinafter, operation of the secondtraversing mechanism T2 is initiated by the third traversing mechanismT3. Initial rotation of the motor 174 drives the sleeve 169 forward,which, with the finger 181 engaged against the end of the cuff assemblyA, pushes it into sewing position relative to the sewing machine 12. Areversing switch 184, FIG. 12, is mounted on the bracket 168 in positionto be engaged and actuated by the sleeve 169 at the end of its forwardstroke. The motor 174 is then reversed to return the sleeve to its restposition. At the end of its return stroke, the arm 170 engages a leverarm 185 that is operatively associated with a stop switch 186, FIGS. 1and 9.

Second Sewing Machine The sewing machine 12 is a Singer Class 251machine which is a single needle, high speed, lock stitch industrialsewing machine substantially as disclosed in the United States patent ofGraesser, No. 2,680,417. As best illustrated in FIG. 13, the stitchingmechanism of the machine includes an endwise moving needle 187 on thelower `end of a needle bar 188 mounted in the head of the machine and acooperating rotary hook 189 mounted in the bed of the machine. Themachine 12 is fitted with a needle positioner 190 that, upon terminationof the sewing cycle, stops the machine with the needle 187 in the raisedposition. For driving the machine 12, there is provided a transmitter191, FIG. 14, mounted upon the supporting structure of the table 11. Thetransmitter 191 is identical to the transmitter 107 and includes anelectric motor 192 having a double acting solenoid 193 mounted upon thecasing thereof. The

solenoid 193 is connected to a lever 194 that controls the clutch andbrake mechanisms of the transmitter 191. The transmitter 191 has a drivepulley 195 on the drive shaft 196 thereof that is connected by a belt197 with the sewing machine 12. With reference to FIG. 22, like thesolenoid 109, the solenoid 193 includes a brake solenoid 198 and aclutch solenoid 199.

The presser mechanism of the machine 12 includes a presser bar 200,FIGS. 17-20, mounted in the head thereof. A presser foot 201 includes ashank 202 secured to the lower end of the presser bar 200 and an arm 203having a vertical axis bore in which is journaled a cylindrical shank204, FIG. 20, integral with a work yengaging foot 205. The shank 204 isheld in the bore in the arm 203 by a spring pressed ball 206 mounted inthe arm 203 and engaging an annular groove 207 in the shank 204. Thefoot 205 is thus mounted on the presser bar 200 for turning freely abouta vertical axis so that it will follow about the edge of the top plate 5of the culf assembly A during the sewing cycle of the machine 12. Toraise the presser foot 201 from engagement with the work, there isprovided a presser lifting lever 208 pivotally mounted intermediate itsends on the bracket arm of the sewing machine 12. One end of the lever208` is connected to the presser bar 200 in the usual manner (not shown)and the other end is connected, FIGS 13 and 14, by a rod 209 with oneend of a rock lever 210 pivotally mounted in the bed of the machine 12.A push rod 211 engages the other end of the rock lever 210 and is inturn actuated by a crank arm 212 mounted on a shaft 213 journaled in abed pan 214 of the machine. The shaft 213 has a second crank arm 215that is connected by a chain 216 running over an idler pulley 217 to asolenoid 218, FIG. 14, mounted on the supporting structure of the table11. When the solenoid 218 is energized, the presser foot 201 will belifted from the work.

About the point of stitch formation, there is provided a throat plate219 having a needle aperture 220` formed in a laterally elongated raisedboss 221. The boss 221 is raised to a height substantially equal to thethickness of the bottom plate 4 of the cuff assembly and is elongatedlaterally to provide a guide edge for the plate 4. The work engagingfoot 205 and the shank 204 thereof are provided with a needle hole 222in alignment with the needle aperture 220 in the throat plate 219 andthrough which the needle passes during stitch formation. The hole 222 isconcentric of the shank 204 so that the axis about which the Workengaging foot is free to turn coincides with the axis of the needle 187.

To secure the loose ends of the needle thread and the bobbin thread ofthe sewing machine 12 until the initial stitches are made, thuspreventing unthreading of the needle and improper positioning the bobbinthread, there is provided a thread end holder which forms the subjectmatter of copending United States patent application Serial No. 737,606,led May 26, 1958, now Patent No. 2,988,031, granted lune 13, 1961. Asillustrated in FIGS. 17-20, the thread ends, designated 223` and 224 areadapted to be clamped against a roughened surface 225 of the throatplate 219 by a foot 226. The foot 226 has a stud 227 mounted in abracket 228 for turning about a horizontal axis to permit automaticleveling of the foot 226 relative to the surface 225. Turning of thefoot 226 is limited by a pin 229 0n the stud 227 that is received in agroove 230l in the bracket 228. The bracket 228 is mounted upon thelower end of a rod 231. The rod 231 has an enlarged upper portion 232that is connected to a piston 233 mounted in a cylinder 234 and biasedupwardly by a spring 235. The cylinder 234 is mounted on a plate 236secured to the head of the sewing machine 12. For guiding the lower endof the rod 231, there is provided a bracket 237 mounted on the lower endof the plate 236 and having an apertured ear 238 through which the rod231 extends. A collar 239 mounted on the rod 231 carries a stud 240extending through a slot 241 in the plate 236 to prevent turning of therod 231. The upper end of the cylinder 234 above the piston 233 isconnected by a tube 242 to a solenoid actuated valve unit 243 mounted onthe under side of the table 11. With reference to FIG. 21, the valveunit 243 includes a solenoid 244 and an air valve 245. The valve unit243 is connected by a tube 246 with a source of compressed aircomprising a pressure tank 247 and an electric motor driven aircompressor 243 mounted upon the supporting structure of the table 14 andinterconnected by a tube 249.

To position the thread ends 223 and 224 under the foot 226 there isprovided a blower comprising a bore 250' drilled in the throat plate 219at an angle such that air emerging therefrom will carry the thread endsunder the foot 226. The bore 251i communicates with a nipple 251 mountedon the underside of the throat plate 219 and connected by a tube 252with the air tank 247. Thus, there is a continuous blast of air emergingfrom the bore 250 for forcing the thread ends 233 and 234 under the foot226.

The sewing machine 12 is provided with a conventional needle threadtension device 253. The collar 239 engages the one end of a lever 254pivotally mounted on an anchor arm 255 mounted on the head of themachine and between the discs of the tension device 253 to release thetension on the needle thread when the rod 231 is forced downwardly tograsp the thread ends.

Third Traverse Mechanism The sewing machine 12 is designed to sew theline of stitches S2 which runs about three sides of the cuff material.To move the cuff assembly in the desired pattern relatively to thestitching mechanism of the sewing machine 12, the feeding mechanism ofthe machine *12 is completely removed and there is provided a traversingmechanism mounted on the table 14. For mounting the traversing mechanismthere is provided a set of parallel tracks 257, FIG. ll2, on the top ofthe table 14 upon which is mounted a frame 25S having a pair of wheels259 mounted upon each of the tracks 257. The frame 253 includes a pairof parallel tracks 261B upon each of which ride a pair of wheels '261mounted on the underside of a traversing table 262.

Mounted upon the traversing table 262 is an electric motor 263 having adrive shaft 264 carrying a pulley 265 that is connected by a belt 266with a pulley i267 on the driven shaft 268 of an adjustable speed ratiocontrol mechanism 269 having an adjusting lever 270. On the drive shaftof the mechanism '269 is a worm 271 that ymeshes with a worm wheel 272on the upper end of a vertical axis shaft 273 extend-ing through thetraversing table 262 and supported above and below the table 258respectively by bearing lugs 274 and 275. The shaft 273 extends to justabove the table 14 and at its lower end is formed with a pinion 276disposed in a guide track 277 in a plate 278 on the table 14. The inneredge of the track 277 is formed with teeth 279 to define a rack thatcooperates with the pinion 276 so that upon actuation of the motor 263,the table 2612 will traverse a path defined by the track 277. The track277 is designed to impart to the table 262 a path of movement conformingto the outline of the stitching S2.

An arm 280 is mounted on the traversing table by a bracket 2181. The arm1280 is T-shaped, FIGS. ll1 and 15, and includes a traverse end portionor plate 282 on the free end thereof, which plate i282 conformssubstantially to the outline of the line of stitching S2 but beingslightly inside thereof to provide clearance for the needle 188. As thecuff assembly A is advanced by the sleeve 169, it is moved onto theplate 282. To position the cuff assembly A on the plate l282, the plate282 is provided, FIGS. 13 and 17, Iwith a groove 283 in the upper facethereof to define a guide edge 284 along the rear edge 12 thereof and'aguide edge 285 along the frontedge thereof.' The groove 283-is just wideenough to accommodate the bottom plate 4 of the cuff assembly whichslides onto the plate 282 between the guide edges 284 and 285. As seenin FIGS. 15 and 16, to position the cuff assembly A longitudinally ofthe plate 232, the leading edge of the bottom plate 4 is provided with anotch 286 that cooperates with a stud 2187 extending upwardly from theplate 282. Retrograde movement of the cuff assembly is prevented by alight leaf spring 238 seated in a recess in the top of the plate 282 andhaving the forward end thereof extending upwardly to engage ina notch289 in the bottom of the plate 4. After the sewing operation, the bottomplate 4 of the culi assembly is released from the stud 287 by a plunger29@ mounted for endwise sliding in the bed plate of the sewing machine12 and adapted to be thrown upwards through a hole 291 in the plate 282against the bottom of the plate 4. The plunger 2911 is biaseddownwardly, FIGS. 13 and 15, by a spring 292 and is moved upwardly by alever 293 pivotally mounted intermediate its ends on the underside ofthe bed 165 by a bracket 294. At its opposite end, the lever 293 isconnected by a tension rod 295 to a solenoid 296 mounted by a bracket297 on the bottom of the bed pan 214 of the sewing machine 12.

To hold the cuff assembly on the plate 282, a lever arm 29S is seated ina groove longitudinally of the arm 230 and has an upturned end 299 towhich is secured a cross bar 311@ having downturned apertured ears 301at each end. A pivot pin 392 passing through the ears 301 pivotallysecures the cross bar 360 to a bracket 303 on plate 282. A pair of arms364 extend forwardly from the cross bar 31m-and support a bar 305carrying a pair of arms 366 the free ends of which overlie the top plate5 of the culi assembly. The arms 306 are biased downwardly against thetop plate 5 by a spring 307 coiled about the pivot pin 352 and havingone end 368 engaging the arm 280 and the other end 369 engaging the bar305. To lift the arms 3116 from the top plate 5, the free end of thelever 29S is connected by a cord 310, FIG. 13, to one end 311 of a lever312 pivotally mounted intermediate its ends by means of a bracket 313 tothe underside of the table 262. The other end 314 of the lever 312,extends at an angle relative to the end 311. A rod 315 mounted at theopposite ends thereof by brackets 316 and 317 upon the supportingstructure of the table 11, is arranged to be engaged by the arms 311 and314 of the lever 312. Thus, when the table 262 is adjacent to the table111, the rod 315 engages the arm 314 of the lever 312, FIG. 13, to exerta pull on the cord 310 and thus lift the bar 3115, and as the table 262lmoves away from the table 11, the rod 315 engages the arm 311 of thelever 312 to permit the spring 307 to lower the bar 305 and through thearm 306 clamp the cuff assembly on the plate 282.

Mounted on the top of the table 14 is a cam plate 318 having four facecam surfaces cooperating individually with a corresponding number ofswitches on the table 262. As seen in FIG. l1, there is a first switch319 carried by a bracket 320 mounted on the traversing table 262 andhaving a vertically movable feeler rod 321 cooperating with a camsurface `322 on the plate 3118. The path of motion of this switch as thetable 262 travels through its cycle as defined by the cam track 277 isindicated at 323. This is a double acting switch that controls theoperation of the sewing machine through the clutch and brake solenoids198 and 199, FIG. 22, the switch 319 being arranged that when the feelerrod 321 is riding on the cam surface 322, the brake solenoid 198 isenergized and when riding off the cam surface 322, the clutch solenoid199 will be energized and the sewing machine 12 is in operation.

A second switch 324 is carried by the bracket 320 and has a verticallymovable feeler rod 325 that cooperates with a cam surface 326 on the camplate 318. The path of motion of the feeler rod 325 on the cam plate 318is Vthe rear edge.

13 indicated at 327. This is the stop switch that terminates operationof the traverse motor 263 when the feeler rod 325 rides Iup on the camsurface 326, the mechanism doing a certain amount of coasting which willcarry the feeler rod 325 over the cam surface 326, thus resetting it forthe next sewing operation.

A third switch 328 is carried by a bracket 329 secured to the traversingtable 262 and has a vertically movable feeler rod 330 that cooperateswith a cam surface 331 on the cam plate 318. The path of motion of thefeeler rod 330 on the cam plate 318 is indicated at 332. The switch 328controls the solenoid actuated valve 244 of the thread end holding foot226.

A fourth switch 333 is carried by the bracket 329 and includes avertically movable feeler rod 334 that cooperates with a cam surface 335on the cam plate 318. The path of motion of the feeler rod 334 on thecam plate 318 is indicated at 336. This switch initiates operation ofthe iinal motion of the machine as hereinafter described.

The traversing table 262 also carries a cam plate 337, FIGS. 11 and 14,secured -to the upper surface thereof and including an elongated camsurface 338 extending over This cam 4surface 338 cooperates with aswitch 339 mounted on the supporting structure of the table 11 to closethe switch when Ithe traversing table 262 is moved laterally relativelythereto. The switch 339 controls the operation of the solenoid 218 whichwhen energized, actuates the presser lifter mechanism of the sewingmachine 12. The `cam surface 338 is elongated to hold the solenoid 218in operation while the arm 280 is passing under the head of the sewingmachine 12.

` For preventing operation of the sewing machine 12 while the arm 280 isunder the needle 188, there is provided a safety switch 340 which is inseries with the one side of the switch 319 that controls the operationof the clutch solenoid 199 of the transmitter 191. The switch 340, FIGS.11 and 14, is carried by a bracket 341 mounted on the supportingstructure of the table 11 and includes a roller-carrying actu-ating arm342 that cooperates with a cam surface 343 mounted on the cam plate 337.

A further safety switch 344 is provided in the series with the one sideof the switch 319 that controls the 'operation of .the clutch solenoid199 of the transmitter 191 when the presser foot 201 is raised. Theswitch 344, FIGS. 13 and 14, is mounted on a bracket 345 depending fromthe pan 214- of the sewing machine 12 and includes an arm 346 thatcooperates with the crank arm 212 of the presser lifter mechanism. Theswitch 344 is normally closed and is opened when the presser liftermechanism is actuated to lift the presser foot 201.

The switch 333, as noted above, initiates operation of the final motionof the machine, which is transporting a cuff assembly from its restposition after the completion of the sewing operation of .the sewingmachine 1t) to the sewing position relatively to the sew-ing machine 12,and simultaneously removing the previously completed cuff from thesewing machine 12. As is hereinafter more fully explained in connectionwith the circuit diagram, FIG. 22, the switch 333 initiates forwardoperation of the motor 1'74 which will move the sleeve 169 forward untilthe limit switch 184 is actuated and will then reverse and return to its'original position where actuation of the limit switch 186 stops themot-or 174. As the sleeve 169 moves forward, the finger 181 mountedthereon engages 'a cuff assembly and moves it into sewing positionrelatively to the sewing machine 12. A guide roller 347 carried by abracket 348mounted on the bed plate 165 of the macbinerlZ cooperateswith the rear edge of the top plate of the cuff assembly to assist inguiding it ontothe arm 282. At the same time, there is an arm 349 on theopposite end of the sleeve 169 from the arm 17 0. The arm 349 carries anelectromagnet 350. The electromagnet 350 is enerigized simultaneouslywith energization of the motor 174 during its forward rotation.

As the sleeve 169 .is moved forwardly, it is turned by cooperation ofthe roller 171 with the cam 173 on the track 172 to lower theelectromagnet 300 upon the top plate 5 of the cuff assembly that is onthe t-raversing arm 282 and upon which the sewing operation has beencompleted. The top plate 5 is provided with a metal insert 356 forattraction by the magnet` 356. A switch 351 is carried by a bracket 352mounted on the edge of the table 11 and includes an actuating arm 353that is adapted to cooperate with a tripping arm 354 `carried by thesleeve 169. The arm 349 earn-ies a tripping arm 355 that is adapted toaetuate the limit switch 184. Simultaneously with lowering of the magnet3511 upon the cuff assembly, the switch 351 is momentarily `actuated toenergize the solenoid 296 yto actuate the plunger 290 for releasing thebottom plate 4 of the cuff assembly from the stud 287, FlG. 16v. Thecuff assembly is thus freed from the plate 282 and magnetically lockedto` the sleeve 169 so that it will be carried by the sleeve.

For severing the thread chain, there is provided a cutter which formsthe subject matter of copending United States patent application SerialNo. 737,607, filed May 26, 195 8, now Patent No. 3,008,437, grantedNovember 14, 1961. This cutter comprises a wire 357, FIG. 13, that isheated to incandescence for burning the thread chain. The wire 357 ismounted upon the upper end of a rod 358 mounted for vertical slidingmovement in the bed of the sewing machine 12. The rod 358 is normallydisposed below the bed plate and is adapted to be projected upwardlythrough -an opening 359 in the bed plate 165 by a solenoid 360 that iscarried by a bracket 361 mounted on the supporting structure of thetable 11. The solenoid 360 is controlled by the switch 351 and isoperated simultaneously with the solenoid 296. With reference to FIG.15, the wire 357 is located such that the Ithread chain will be wipedover it as the cuff assembly is moved away lfrom sewing position. Theheating of the wire 357 is controlled by a unit 362, FIG. 22, so that itis heated only shortly before termination of the sewing cycle of thesewing machine 12.

From the sewing position relatively to the sewing machine l12, the cuffassembly is carried by the sleeve 169 across and beyond the bed of themachine 12 and the table 11. At the end of the forward motion of thesleeve 169, the elect-romagnet 350` is deenergized simultaneously withreversal of the motor 17 4, and the cuff assembly is released. Beneaththe point where the cuff assembly is released, there is a chute 363,FIGS. l, 12 and 14, that directs it onto a belt 364. rlhe belt 364 isentrained at the end adjacent to the chute 363 about a pulley 365 thatis journaled in brackets 366 supported by a chute 367 which encloses thebelt 364 for the major portion of its length and is in turn supported bybrackets 368, FIG. 14, secured to the underside of the table 14. Thebelt 364 is arranged beneath the tables 11 and 14 and the leg =16 of thetable '9 lfor carrying the completed cuff assembly back to the operatorstationed at the loading position, who dismantles the cuff assembly,disposes of the completed cuff, and re-uses the plates 4 and 5. At theend adjacent to the loading position and beneath the table 9, the belt364 is entrained about a pulley 369, FIG. l, that is also journaled inbrackets carried by the chute 367. To maintain both runs of the belt 364close together for running in the chute 367, an idler pulley 370, FIG.l2, is journaled in the brackets 366 and a similar idler pulley 371,FlG. l, is arranged relative to the pulley 369. 'Ihe belt 364 is drivenby a pulley 372, mounted upon the shaft 373 which carries the pulley365. A belt 374 is entrained about the pulley 372 and about a pulley 375`on the end of a shaft 376 journaled on the supporting structure of thetable 11. At its other end, the shaft 376 is coupled to a speed reducingmechanism 377 that has a driven shaft 378 having a pulley 379 connectedby a belt 380 with a pulley 381 on the end of the shaft 196 of thetransmitter 192.

The machine includes numerous electrical control components aswillhereinafter appear, which components are housed in a box 382, FIG.1, mounted on the supporting structure of the table r11 and a box 383mounted on the supporting structure of the table 9.

Electrical Connections and Operation The operation of the machine can.best be understood with reference to the description of FIG. 22 whichis an electrical diagram having the basic mechanical componentsillustrated schematically.

Power is supplied to a relay unit 384 from a 110 volt source by leads385 and from a three-phase 220 volt source by leads 386. An on-ot switch387 for the relay unit 384 controls the power supply to the machine and-a pilot light 388 indicates that the power is on. The unit 384 includesa pai-r of relays 389 and 390 energized from the 110 volt source 385 andcontrolled by the switch 387. From the relay 390 which controls the 220volt source, there are three leads 391 that deliver power to theelectric motors 108 and 192 ofthe transmitters 107 and 191 which beginto operate immediately when the switch 387 is closed. The 220 volt powerenergizes only the motors 108 and 192, the remainder of the electricalcomponents of the machine being energized by 110 volt power.

From the relay 389 which is in the line of the 110 volt source, there isa first common 392 which, in FIG. 22, is the heaviest of the lines and asecond common 393 which is the medium heavy line. The motor of the aircompressor 248, which is connected directly across the commons 392 and393 begins to operate immediately when the switch 387 is closed.

The motor 71 which drives the first traversing mechanism includes aforward drive field coil 394 and a reverse drive field coil 39S. A relay396 includes a solenoid 397, a pair of normally open contacts 398, apair of normally closed contacts 399 and a pair of normally opencontacts 400. The starting switch 100 is connected at one side to thecommon 393 and at the other lside is connected by a lead 401 to one sideof the llimit switch 99 and one side of the relay contacts 399 and 400.The other side of the limit switch 99 is connected by a lead 402 withone side of the solenoid 397, the other side of which is connected tothe common 392. Thus, when the starting switch 100 is closed, thesolenoid 397 is energized through the normally closed limit lswitch `99and the leads 401 and 402.

Upon energization of the solenoid 397, the relay contacts 398 and 400are closed and the contacts 399 are opened. The side of relay contacts398 opposite from the lead 401 are connected by a lead 403 to one sideof the forward lield coil 394 of the motor 71, the other side of whichis connected to the common 392. Thus, when the relay contacts 398 areclosed, the motor 71 begins forward rotation to drive the belt 94 andthus advance the cuit assembly from the loading position to the firstsewing machine 10. The limit switch 98 is normally closed and is heldopen by the arm 97 on the slide 87. Upon the initial movement of thebelt 94, the arm 97 moves away from the limit switch 98, permitting itto close. The limit switch 98 is connected at one side to the common 393and at the other side by a lead 404 to the side of the relay contacts400 opposite from the side connected to the lead 401. When the limit4switch '98 closes, the relay solenoid 397 is energized from the common393, through the limit switch 98, relay contacts 400, lead 401, limitswitch 99 and lead 402. The starting switch 100 can now be released `andthe cycle of actuation of the motor 71 will continue, the forward fieldcoil 394 of the motor 71 being energized from the common 393, throughthe now closed limit switch 98, lead 404, relay contacts 400, lead 401,relay contacts 398, and lead 403.

At the end of its forward movement, the arm 9-7 opens the Ilimit switch99 which deenergizes the solenoid 397, and it in turn, opens the relaycontacts 398 and 400 and closes the relay contacts 399. Opening thecontacts 398 deenergizes the forward field coil 394 and stops forwardrotation of the motor 71. One side of the relay contacts 399 isconnected to the lead 404 and the other side is connected .by a lead 405to one side of the reverse field coil 395 of the motor 71, the otherside `of which is connected to the common 392. Thus, closing of therelay contact 399 energizes the coil 395 from the common 393, throughthe limit switch 98, lead404, relay contacts 399 and lead 405, and themotor 71 will rotate in reverse to return the slide 87 to its originalposition. Since the relay contact 400 is now open, the solenoid 397 willnot be reenergized when the limit switch 99 closes as the arm 97 movesaway from it. At the end ofthe return stroke, the arm 97 opens the limitswitch 98 thus deenergizing the reverse iield coil 395 and stopping themotor 71. The arm 97 is engaged against the limit switch 98 when themotor 71 stops to hold the switch open until initiation of the nextcycle.

As the cuff assembly is advanced by the slide 87, it passes under andthereby closes the normally open switch 151 to initiate operation of thesewing machine 10. To control lthe solenoid 109 of the transmitter 107,there is a relay 406 including a solenoid 407, a normally open pair ofcontacts 408 and a normally closed pair of contacts 409. The contacts409 are connected at one side to the common 392 and at the other sideare connected by a lead 410 with one side of the brake solenoid 111 ofthe transmitter 107, the other side of which is connected to the common393. When the solenoid 397 is not energized and the relay contacts 409are therefore closed, the one side of the `brake solenoid 111 isconnected to the common 392 through the lead 410 and relay switch 409,thus energizing the brake solenoid 111 to engage the brake mechanism ofthe transmitter 107. The normally open relay contacts 408 are connectedat one side to the common 392 and at the other side by a lead 411 withone side of the clutch solenoid 112 of the transmitter 107, the otherside of which is connected to the common 393. When the contacts 408 areclosed, the clutch solenoid 112 will be energized to actuate the sewingmachine 10. The relay solenoid 407 is connected at one side to thecommon 393 and at the other side by a lead 412 with one side of theswitch 151, the other side of which is connected to the common 392. Whenthe cutf assembly passes under and closes the switch 151, the solenoid407 is energized to close the relay contacts 408 and thus initiateoperation of the machine 10. The switch 154 is connected in parallelwith the switch 151 and acts to maintain energization of the solenoid407 after the cuff assembly has passed under the switch 151 and thushold the sewing machine in operation. When the cuff assembly passesunder the switch 154, the solenoid 407 is deenergized, the switch 408 isopened and the switch 409 is closed to stop the sewing machine 10. Theswitch 151 is located to start the sewing machine 10 as the culiassembly is moved into sewing position and the switch 154 is located tohold the sewing machine 10 in operation for sewing a predetermineddistance beyond the cuff assembly to provide a thread chain betweensuccessive cutis.

To actuate the thread-chain cutter 141 there is provided a relay controlunit 413. The lead 411 is connected to one side of a solenoid 414 of arelay 415 and having its other side connected to the common 393. Therelay 415 includes a normally open pair of contacts 416 and a normallyclosed pair of contacts 417. The solenoid 414 is energized when thecontacts 408 are closed to initiate operation of the sewing machine 10,and acts to close the contacts 416 and open the contacts 417. Thecontacts 416 are connected at one side to one side of a rectier 418 thatis connected at its other side to the lead 411. The other side of thecontacts 416 is connected to one side of a condenser 419 which isconnected at its other side to the common 393. Thus, when the contacts416 are closed, the condenser 419 is charged from the lead 411 throughthe rectiiier 418. The contacts 417 are connected at one side to thecondenser 419 and at the other side to one side

1. IN COMBINATION, A SUPPORTING STRUCTURE, A SEWING MACHINE MOUNTED ONSAID SUPPORTING STRUCTURE, SAID SEWING MACHING HAVING A WORK SUPPORTINGSURFACE, STITICH FORMING MECHANISM INCLUDING AN ENDWISE MOVABLE NEEDLEDEFINING A POINT OF STITCH FORMATION ON SAID WORK SUPPORTING SURFACE,TRANSVERSING MECHANISM FOR MOVING WORK RELATIVE TO SAID POINT OF STITCHFORMATION TO PRODUCE A SEAM OF A PREDETERMINED CONFIGURATION SAIDTRAVERSING MECHANISM COMPRISING A TRAVERSING ELEMENT FOR CARRYING THEWORK AND MOUNTED UPON SAID SUPPORTING STRUCTURE FOR UNIVERSAL MOVEMENTIN A HORIZONTAL PLANE, MEANS FOR DRIVING SAID TRAVERSING ELEMENTCOMPRISING A RACK CONFORMING TO THE PREDETERMINED CONFIGURATION AND ADRIVEN PINION COOPERATING WITH SAID RACK, SAID RACK AND PINION BEINGCARRIED BY SAID TRAVERSING ELEMENT AND SAID SUPPORTING STRUCTURE, MEANSFOR INITIATING OPERATION OF SAID TRAVERSING ELEMENT, AND CONTROL MEANSRESPONSIVE TO THE